An ending (ascent)

Finality is unavoidable. And this chapter of my life is about to come to a close. I’ve struggled a lot the past few weeks searching for that last ounce of motivation. I almost convinced myself to stay put in Punta Arenas and count down the days until my flight. But, something kept gnawing at me to push through a few more cold days. To reach Ushuaia.

Struggling with this lack of motivation, I found myself drawn to the idea of pulling long fast days of riding on the main road. However, something within me knew that I had to do right by the bikepacking gods. I therefore decided to make the most of my time in Southern Patagonia. After all, there are no guarantees I’ll be back.

The soon to be classic bikepack along the Beagle Channel was a highlight of this past week, even the trip itself. In large part because of what it symbolizes. A beautiful exit. A route which summarized the trip’s whole purpose. To escape roads and traffic, and lose oneself in a perfect piece of nature. This is bikepacking zen. As the specks of light grew and the outlines of buildings became more defined, I felt this overwhelming sense of tranquility take ahold of me. It was almost as if a tension had been released, one which I hadn’t known even existed. An ending which provided a context for the past year and a half of my life.

This is possibly/probably the last post I’ll be doing (I might to some gear reviews etc). I apologize for the lackluster photos but I spent all my energy trying to enjoy my last pieces of good riding and less time photographing them. There is so much we couldn’t have accomplished without the help of others. Completing a trip like this does not build on my ego, but only reinforces how lucky I’ve been to be able to achieve this goal. So, I humbly thank family, friends, and followers for your enthusiasm and support. You’re all here with me, at the end of the world.

Trees down south tend to take on this certain lean
Rio Verde, possibly one of the strangest communities I’ve ever camped in.
puzzlin’ gates
Along Seno Otway. A highly recommendable alternative to the main road.
Got me some!
Cold cleasr nights, make for beautiful mornings
Frost crystals
bus shelter/cyclists refuge.


The classic stop in Panaderia La Union, Tolhuin.
Setting off for a bikepack along the beagle channel.
The first 10 kilometers bring you past a variety of beautiful cabins.
The channel comes into view.
Almanza, trailerpark fishing town?
The route passes through restricted naval land. No traffic out here.
I find myself riding until it starts getting dark. Taking advantage of my fortunate weather.
In the morning i follow farm track along the coast. The foggy weather begins to clear and i’m teased with glimpses of Ushuaia.
As you can see, the restricted land is not particularily well secured.
After a few kilometers of bashing through Calafate bushes, I emerge on some rideable singletrack and out to the main road.
If pushed to answer if I would do it again on a fatbike, I think the answer is pretty obvious!

6 thoughts on “An ending (ascent)

  1. Congratulations! We’re in Mexico now (started in Alaska) and riding the dirt as much as possible too.
    Just out of interest, which month did you finish in Ushuaia, and how were the temps? We’re looking at an autumn 2019 finish.
    cheers Mark and Hana

    • We finished up in April. It was definitely getting chilly by then although probably not any lower than 0 during the day and sometimes warmer for sure but don’t expect to be in a t-shirt! Have a great trip, you’ve got some really amazing stuff coming up!

  2. Really enjoying your write up! Awesome job! I’m also planning a trip to South America and hoping to tour from Bariloche or Punta Arenas to Ushuaia via dirt. I hear that’s becoming really tough to do with the increase in pavement. I’d prefer as much off-road riding as possible. Do you have any maps or GPS of your route? Or any anecdotal evidence of some solid options?

Leave a comment

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s