Final words from the other half of fatcycling

Like with whatever else you do day in day out, this trip had a bit of everything; excitement, joy and routine, as well as times of boredom, frustration and anger.

Summarising 20.000k…

It’s been almost two years since we landed in Cancún, Mexico, all happy-go-lucky, no clue what was actually awaiting us. Heat and humidity, long days on flat highways, food poisoning, popusas, taking boats across estuaries, camping and cycling on beaches, in churches, firestations and schools, and yacht-ing to bypass the Darian gap (which we probably would’ve tried with our current experience). After taking five months off in Canada to avoid rainy season we headed back to the Andes; dirt roads, insane climbs, elevation sickness, wind, rain, mud, heat, thirst, sickness, teaching at a local school, hike a bikes, deserts and salt flats, illnesses, robberies, sand, corrugations, green forests and lakes, almost drowning in an attempted river crossing, volcanos, blackberries, glaciers and the cold. We had so many experiences, the memories will last for the rest of our lives. Continue reading


Frustrations and solutions

I’ve developed a small list of frustrations travelling off the gringo path into more remote regions. Often you’re treated like an animal to be stared and laughed at. I’ve gotten so frustrated that I’ve started staring right back, or telling people off for being rude. I remember one incident where Gina and I just wanted to cook and eat dinner. We were surrounded by half the town, children and adults alike stared at us from arms length as we ate quietly. Even after I calmly explained that we were exhausted and needed a bit of space, we were only afforded an extra 30cm to breathe. Continue reading

Sailing away

We spent our final days in Central America, aka Panama, on a boat to Colombia. The days beforehand had been stressful, so seasickness, warm turquois Caribbean water, and islands like those you see on catalogues were a very welcome distraction. Continue reading

Perusing through Panama

After Volcan we managed to avoid the highway one more day by taking the Ruta 103 to Potrerillos Abajo and later on a dirt road to Rio Caldera. Several people had told us about a spot at the river where camping was possible, apparently even toilets existed as some celebrations took place here. However, we ended up going across the bridge and not finding any such spot. Continue reading

A beautiful day (Rio Sereno to Volcan)

Today deserves a blog post for itself. Over the past 50-something days that we’ve been cycling, today has by far been the most beautiful.

We left Rio Sereno as the sun was rising with glorious views onto the surrounding mountains. Continue reading

Another section comes to an end (Londres, Palmar Norte, San Vita, Sereno)

10 days in Costa Rica have gone by. Since our last post we had a rest day in Londres, which wasn’t much of a rest day due to the number of things that needed to be done. Continue reading

Beaches and trail magic (Nicoya Peninsula)

When we looked at the maps for Costa Rica, we quickly discovered that there were a plethora of dirt roads which we could explore. Upon crossing the border and staying in La Cruz de Guanacaste at the cheapest accomodation we could find (still overpriced), we set out to circuit the Nicoya peninsula. Having heard that the roads were rough, we thought it was only the right choice. Continue reading

This was Nicaragua

The ten days we spent in Nicaragua passed by quickly. While having had strong headwinds on most days, we enjoyed finally being able to find more dirt roads and to camp more frequently (campspots, Warmshowers, churches). Continue reading